Fashion Royalty

We are lucky enough to have in our shop Mary Quant pieces; we seem to sell them pretty quickly – the last being an amazing jumper.

Mary Quant

In 1955 Quant opened her first shop called Bazaar on the Kings Road in London which sold her own designs and stock bought in by her. A few years later she went on to open her second Bazaar shop, which focused her on designing and producing her own range of clothes. This was lounge wear trousers to white plastic collars used to alter an outfit and men’s cardigans made long enough to be worn as women’s dresses. By the end of 1966 Quant worked with over 18 manufacturers of her unique designs.

Now when you think of Mary Quant you think of two things monochrome and mini shirts, but she did much more then that. She also worked under different labels like Ginger by Mary Quant, she even designed a Mary Quant mini Copper and home ware. The thing about Quant is that she is a pioneer of fashion and the relation between the social economical and sociological changes of the times in relation to fashion. Where women in the sixties can afford to buy their own clothes (they were more career minded), they did not have to conscribe to an ideal of female and fashion; because of women’s liberation (and the invention of the pill) women could wear what they want, work (all be it still in a limit career) and be a part of a movement where youth, beauty and independence (in style or lifestyle) were applauded.

Now there is lots of talk about whether Quant actually designed the mini skirt and we really will never know – but she was one of the first female designers that designed for women that broke down boundaries and moved things forward – she was a pioneer of the hot pants. So she is alright in our books. Her designs have carried on trickling into popular culture think of The Spice Girls who really took on Quant’s ideas of the power of female fashion – Geri in her union jack  mini dress and Mary Quant hot pants she wore in their first video.

Mary Quant designs still lead the way in fashion (we are really sick to death of seeing the detachable collars that are everywhere - now) .

We love her style and feel lucky to have some of her pieces in our shop.

Vintage Kin

Vintage Kin

The world of vintage is very small, which I did not realise before opening the shop. On the opening week people came from all over London saying they had heard we were opening and they own this shop or work at this magazine. Now this is both nice and unsettling (someone who I will call mean came in on my first day and yes I did do a little cry afterwards but that only happened once) as you have the feeling that you are being sized up, what are your prices like, your stock, your shop decoration and even the outfit you are wearing! But as times goes on you realise they are all here to support you to take some of your shop flyers, do a Follow Friday on Twitter and wish you well and say yes times are hard but stick with it you will do alright.

I have had people buy stuff from my shop who own their own shop and not ask for a discount or mates rates they are trying to support you – because you are vintage kin. Through this a network builds up where you become known, others recommend you and things happen. Like Lena who own Vintage Guide to London who wrote a review when we first opened and through that we have got in to Time Out from her piece on us and we also won 2012 Best New Vintage Shop too. It is this kinship that makes you feel that you have become part of a community and that unlike big chains we are not competing with each other we are just trying to survive in this though time. 

Here is a few of our favourite local vintage shops.

Cha Cha Cha in the mews in Muswell Hill, they have loads of beautiful dresses and their prices are really great they stock a small men’s section with really cool pieces and they have vintage furniture and home ware – oh and they sell online too

20-22 Avenue Mews N10 3NP

Mishka in Middle Lane Crouch End now this shop truly is a treasure trove filled with Ossie Clark’s and original twenties gowns and the owner lizzie is beyond lovely and knows loads about vintage fashion too.

210-212 Middle Lane, Tottenham

London, N8 7LA

And lastly is Rock Candy on Holloway road the owner Emma has a great eye for what’s on trend this season and her prices are crazy cheap she also sells online too and is well worth a visit.

Rock Candy is located at 716 Holloway Road, London, N19 3NH.

I am the Boss

You have to be a certain type of person to be your own boss, and I really didn’t think I fell into that criteria. Yes I am motivated and I have lots of ideas. But I am also shy and like the security of having a regular pay packet. But when the opportunity came up for me to open a shop – I was blinded by the sheer excitement of it, that I didn’t once think of the ‘FEAR” that you get with having your own business and premises.

Being your own boss means you can take as much holiday as you want to, whatever hours you want and answer to no one. But what actually happens is you take no holiday, work all the time and feel guilty if you have a cold and can’t face going in today – so you crawl in to work. I never thought that would happen to me, I love paid holiday and would ‘go to the dentist’ at least seven times a year.

By being your own boss there is a huge sense of achievement when you sell, when someone complements your shop and when you get press attention or awards. You feel like a very proud boarding on creepy mother. But the flip side of it is that you get stressed out when you have quiet periods, your rationale goes out the window and you are sure that you and your shop are rubbish . You are constantly trying to think outside of the box and if you could you would wear a sandwich board advertising your shop at all times.

The balance of work and private life blend into one which for me I use to my advantage. I put on lots of late night events and invite all my friends along so I can do both work and have a social life. It is strange but I dream most nights about my shop and I almost feel that we are now one and the same and even my dog Rose thinks of the shop as her other home.

Although there are grey and black periods there are also Technicolor moments where I have to pinch myself and think it is weird you are not that little girl dressed up in a Wonder Woman outfit rocking bangles on your thighs you are now a grown up with stock, over heads and tax to be paid! Having Painted Black made me into a grown up but in the best possible way.

The hunt is on

The Hunt is on

The art of buying vintage clothes according to Amelia Dillingham owner of Painted Black.

One thing people ask when you own a Vintage shop is where we source our stuff. We always say the same thing: we have a little black book filled with contacts, our vintage holy grail.  Of course this is true, but we also go on buying trips, which are amazing. If I told my six-year-old self what I would be doing when I grew up I would of hugged the crap out of myself.

Buying trips, now these are all based on tip offs by friends and espionage. Our last buying trip was over the New Year when we had eight days off. All we will say it the first part stared 'Up North' and the second part was in Paris! Now I hear you cry this is really cruel and unfair. And yes I would have to agree, but we have to have some perks.

Tips when buying. We never buy based on trends or what Kate Moss is wearing, although she does obviously look beautiful.  Once the trend has had its day and they all do, you will be left with lots of dead stock.

So we buy based on would we wear this? And does this rock? So always buy based on your gut reaction to something. This does not mean you have to be conservative in your choices only going for the classic little black dress or fifties cashmere cardigans, you can also be brave and go for seventies cat-suits – Vintage shops are expected to have outlandish clothes.

Be prepared to look through the boxes under the table or the trunk stuffed on the back of a van, and ask questions to the seller, they may help you in finding more treasure and dating a piece, lots of pieces come with a story, and this I think adds something, when you are trying to sell it on. Part of the charm of vintage clothes is the life that the pieces have led so far. 

How to date items is something that you learn on the job. We obviously have done our homework, and have a library of Fashion Resource books, which are like porn to us! But you can also tell by little details check the zips are old, look at the stitching, buttons and pattern, manufacturing has changes a lot since the twenties! Also examine the finer points of garments like shoulder pads and cuts. Lastly feel the material and the materials used; silk is typical twenties and printed silk is fifties, where as polyester mix is typical seventies. As time has passed I can tell by touch alone. This is my only cool skill - I can’t even do a cartwheel, and l learnt to ride a bike at fifteen.

Always be prepared to look and look again at stock. Is it stained? Are there buttons missing? Can you source the age appropriate buttons or trim to fix it? Although it may look a little neglected, most things can be brought back to glamorous life with a trip to the drycleaners and a steam - we use lavender oil in our steamer.

It is hard not to be tempted, but do not buy everything that you see - you can become overwhelmed by choice and selection and then go into power buying mode.  You have to be careful because unless the pieces are amazing and affordable you may end up with lots of stock and a limited retail space. Also a very important piece of advice is if you buy someone’s whole collection you are buying that one or two size of clothing, which is limiting to your customers.

Finding treasure is what it is all about, and whether it is a beautiful hat or an amazing jacket the key is selection and variety allowing your customers plenty of choice. So we try and have vintage costume jewelry, vintage hats, bags and outfits so the chances are there is something for most.

Have fun on your treasure hunts and we may see you there!

Wonderful Women

Last night was my first every group meeting – and no it was not the AA, it was a female business group called ‘Wonderful Women’ – set up and run by ReeRee Rockette who owns Rockalily cuts. I am far from a group person and typically find the idea of standing up saying ‘Hi I am Amelia and I own Painted Black’, can make me break out in a cold sweat. But I went as I am a grown up, I am nearly thirty for Christ sakes! 

I found the group to filled with a complete mixture of women at differing stages in their careers and in completely different fields, which for me was really interesting and refreshing. There was no alpha female taking the lead and making her voice heard the loudest, it was like meeting up with some friends over a drink and talking about your life, career and aspirations and fears. We all had something to bring a new perspective, contacts that we had acquired through our own careers that we could offer out, life experience that can put a new spin on things. But mostly it just felt nice to be a part of something where everyone was focused on one thing there business and wanting to make it grown and sustain. 

We were not competing with each other and talking about turnover and net profit, but we were instead helping to focus each other in what we want to achieve. Afterwards I felt like not only had I achieved something by breaking my group virginity (sounds far dirtier than it is) but that I had gained some new contacts that I could ask advice from and offer up my services too.

Party till your dog's leg hurts

Party till your dog’s leg hurts.

We are great believers in a party here at Painted Black. And we put on lots of late night events – we have had several since opening in January 2012. The Crouch End Festival where Animal Kingdom played an acoustic set in store (the best night of my life), A retro Avon party to raise money for Breast Cancer Awareness, the monthly Barboot where we stay open late with music, free booze and independent stalls dotted all over the place – happens the first Friday of every month, The End Festival which took place over two nights where we had seven bands play live in store our favourites being We Are Willow and we’ve had Halloween parties where we have all dressed up and smashed the life out of a piñata.

We see the importance being more than just a clothes shop – we want to be a destination that people think of as having things going on, being apart of the community and more than anything a place that’s fun.

2013 will bring with it lots of new late night events and charity events and live performances from musicians to actors and artists. We love our shop and all the diversity we can offer just by thinking outside of the box and saying yes to people and friends who come up with ideas. At the moment we are working on a top-secret silent fashion auction for our favourite charity Little Hens Rescue – we will keep you posted.

To be a part of our night life then come in store and talk to us about what you want to do or email us paintedblackshop@hotmail.com.

Also if you like us on Facebook or follows us on Twitter _paintedblack_ we will keep you updated on all the on goings and also pictures of the goddess Shop Dog Rose too .

Love PB x